The Three Capes Track …
Day 1 Denman’s Cove to Crescent Lodge (6km)
The Covid gods smiled on us and on Saturday 9 October, Cath and I stumbled through the streets of Hobart with black garbage bags over our shoulders, making our way to the start of our wilderness adventure. The bags contained our gear for the walk (which was shortly to be transferred to proper backpacks) but that didn’t stop the curious stares from sympathetic passers-by. After a short bus trip and an even shorter cruise in a fast boat, we waded ashore onto the Tasman Peninsular at Denman’s Cove and started the walk in to Crescent Lodge under the close scrutiny of our two excellent guides, Jimmy and Molly.
Soon after setting off the track started to climb from sea level to about 200 metres, but the walking was easy and the track incredibly well maintained. Although there are glimpses of the glorious views to come, the walk is mainly through dense vegetation and the highlight proved to be the spotting of a rare albino echidna. Crescent Lodge, however, was all the brochures had promised and more. We had a resident host/chef who had afternoon tea ready for our arrival, followed closely by canapés and champagne and then a two course dinner. To be honest, after such a short, easy walk the comforts of the Lodge seemed too generous a reward and it was hard not to feel slightly fraudulent. But all the trappings of civilisation, pleasant though they were, counted as nothing against the spectacular views from the lodge over the first of the three capes, Cape Raoul.
Day 2 Crescent Lodge to Cape Pillar Lodge (11km)
Fortified by a hot breakfast we set off at 9am on the second day on what promised to be a slightly more taxing walk. The main challenge of the day was the ascent of Arthur's Peak (320m). Our fantastic guides made their first elementary mistake as we approached the climb, which was to suggest that everyone should take the climb "at their own pace" and that they (the guides) would follow behind to mop up the stragglers.
Of course, Cath immediately accelerated and dragged me up that mountain in her slipstream making sure that we left everyone else way behind. She arrived at the top looking as fresh as a daisy, while I struggled to hold the iPhone to take the commemorative photo.
It is only from the summit of Arthur's Peak that you truly appreciate the wonder of the southern Tasmanian coastline, which is composed of giant columns of exposed dolerite that protrude over 300 metres from the sea. It is believed that these rocks were formed in the Jurassic period, about 185 million years ago. In fact, Tasmania has the largest number of these exposed columns in the world and not for nothing are they known as The Pillars at the Bottom of the World.
The descent from Arthur's Peak is quick and brutal on the quads, but when you turn and look back from whence you came, you do feel a glow of satisfaction.
The views over the exposed dolerite cliffs just keep on coming as you make your way to Cape Pillar Lodge for the second night. Just at the end of the day there is a series of 13 steep switchbacks which take you up onto a narrow ridge where Cape Pillar Lodge nestles quietly in the eucalyptus trees. This time it is the views over Cape Hauy that simply take your breath away while you quietly sip champagne and give thanks that Tasmania remains the world's best kept secret.
Day 3 Cape Pillar Lodge to Cape Pillar (13km return)
Day 4: Cape Pillar Lodge to Fortescue Bay (18km)
The Road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow, if I can …
(Bilbo’s song in The Fellowship of the Ring)
The final day was a Middle Earth epic - by far the most physically challenging day of the walk. We started off through dense rainforest to the feet of the biggest climb of the walk, Mt. Fortescue (482m), or as I like to think of it - the Pass of Caradhras (the mightiest peak in the Misty Mountains). Of course, the guides once more offered those immortal words of wisdom about taking the climb at your own pace. I leave the rest to your imagination, but suffice it to say that Cath and I were so far ahead when we hit the summit that I had almost regained the power of rational thought by the time the others arrived.
We stopped for a well-deserved up of tea at the summit which offered spectacular views over Cape Hauy - the last of the three Capes.
We descended from Mt. Fortescue and approached Cape Hauy. I don't know what I was expecting, but it certainly wasn't what was waiting for us. All I could think of when I saw the path out to the Cape was the Stairs of Cirith Ungol from the Return of the King. Given Cath's phobia about all things to do with arachnids, I didn't mention that we might encounter Shelob's Lair on the way out to the Cape.
The path to Cape Hauy is pretty hard on the legs and there is a fair amount of elevation gain and fall involved, but the view over the Cape and the favourite rock climbing destination, the Totem Pole, makes it well worth the effort.
We trudged the last few kilometres to the end of the track at Fortescue Bay in relative silence - partly because the day had been pretty demanding physically, but also because an incredible wilderness experience was coming to an end. The Pillars at the Bottom of the World are very, very special and I won't forget them in a hurry.
If I’m doubt always follow your nose
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